Freshwater Quarantine

Neocaridina shrimp (cherry, blue dream, yellow), Caridina shrimp (crystal red/black, taiwan bee), Amano shrimp, ghost shrimp, vampire shrimp, bamboo shrimp, nerite snails, mystery snails, ramshorn snails, Malaysian trumpet snails, assassin snails, dwarf crayfish (CPO).

Freshwater invertebrates are EXTREMELY sensitive to copper, ammonia, and most commercial fish medications. NEVER use copper-based treatments (no Cupramine, no API Copper Safe), formalin, malachite green, or organophosphates in a tank that contains invertebrates. Even residue from prior copper dosing in plastic, silicone, or substrate can kill shrimp months later — invertebrate QT must use brand-new or copper-virgin equipment. Most fish parasite medications, ich treatments, and aluminum-based phosphate removers are also lethal. Snails are slightly more tolerant than shrimp, but the rule is the same: assume any medication is lethal until proven otherwise.

1. Float the sealed bag in the QT for 15 minutes to equalize temperature in low light.
2. Open the bag into a clean (copper-free) plastic cup or specimen container, never directly into the tank.
3. Drip-acclimate at 2-3 drops per second using airline tubing tied off with a loose knot.
4. Continue dripping for 60-90 minutes, until the original water volume has at least tripled.
5. Net or scoop the invertebrate into the QT — DO NOT pour the shipping water in.
6. Keep lights off for the first 24 hours and avoid feeding for the first day.

• Day 0: Drip-acclimate and place. Lights off, no feeding.
• Days 1-3: Observe for activity, antenna movement, and shell/exoskeleton condition. Begin light feeding day 2.
• Week 1: Watch for vorticella, scutariella (white whiskers on shrimp heads), or any cloudy patches on the shell.
• Weeks 2-3: Continue normal feeding. A successful molt and active grazing are strong signs of recovery.
• Week 4: If all animals are behaving normally and molting cleanly, they are ready to enter the display.

If treatment is required, the only widely tolerated freshwater invertebrate options are: salt baths at 1 tsp/gal for snail/shrimp external parasites (NOT for shrimp long-term), Seachem ParaGuard at half-dose (use with caution and only short term), Indian almond leaves and rooibos tea for mild antibacterial/antifungal support, and planaria/hydra removal with no-planaria (fenbendazole) — which is shrimp-safe but lethal to snails. Always remove snails before fenbendazole treatment.

Vorticella (stalked protozoans on shrimp legs), scutariella japonica (white worm-like parasites on shrimp heads), hydra (small green/brown tentacled polyps that sting shrimplets), planaria (flatworms that hunt shrimplets), bladder snail and pond snail eggs, copepods (harmless), seed shrimp (harmless), leeches (occasionally on wild-collected stock — remove immediately).

A 5-10 gallon bare-bottom tank, a cycled sponge filter (NEVER a HOB with intake — shrimp climb in), a small heater set to 70-75°F, a lid (shrimp jump and crayfish climb), Indian almond leaves or cholla wood for biofilm, a piece of cuttlebone for calcium, and a copper test kit you trust. Do NOT use any equipment that has previously contacted copper.

Temperature 68-78°F (Neocaridina), 64-72°F (Caridina), GH 6-8 (Neocaridina) or 4-6 (Caridina), KH 0-4 (Caridina) or 2-8 (Neocaridina), TDS 150-250 (Caridina) or 180-300 (Neocaridina), pH 6.2-7.0 (Caridina) or 6.8-7.8 (Neocaridina). Ammonia and nitrite MUST be 0; nitrate under 20 ppm. Copper under 0.01 ppm — ideally undetectable.

…a shrimp is lying on its side, not moving

Check ammonia, nitrite, copper, and TDS immediately. A 25-30% water change with temperature-matched, GH-matched water is the first response. Move the animal to a separate container only if water parameters are good.

…shrimp won't molt or get stuck mid-molt

Low GH or low calcium. Slowly raise GH with a remineralizer and add cuttlebone. Stuck molts are usually fatal — do not pull the shed.

…white fuzzy patches on a snail or shrimp

Likely fungal/bacterial. Improve water quality first, add Indian almond leaves, and isolate the animal in a hospital container if it spreads.

…all shrimp die within hours of adding a new medication or plant

Almost certainly copper or pesticide contamination from new plants/decor. Do a 50% water change, run fresh activated carbon, and remove the suspected item.

…snails are floating or sealed shut for more than 48 hours

Mystery and nerite snails seal off when stressed. Check pH (too low = shell erosion), GH (needs calcium), and ammonia. Float them in a cup of tank water with a calcium block — most recover.